Smoked Corn

Using a large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil, wrap wood chips in an 8-by-4 1/2–inch foil packet. (Make sure chips do not poke holes in sides or bottom of packet.) Cut 2 evenly spaced 2-inch slits in top of packet.

For a Charcoal Grill: Open bottom vent completely. Fill a large chimney starter 2/3 full with charcoal briquettes (4 quarts) and light starter. When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Place wood chip packet on coals. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 5 minutes. For a Gas Grill: Remove cooking grate and place wood chip packet directly on primary burner. Set grate in place; turn all burners to high; cover; and heat grill until hot and wood chips are smoking, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on medium-high and turn off other burner(s). Adjust primary burner as needed to maintain grill temperature between 300 and 350°F (150 to 175°C).

While the grill is heating, combine the mayonnaise, lime juice, sugar, 1/2 teaspoon salt, pepper, chile powder, and cayenne in a medium bowl. Using a pastry brush, brush the corn with half of the mayonnaise mixture. Sprinkle corn evenly with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt.

Clean and oil cooking grate. Arrange corn on cooler side of grill. Cover and cook until corn is tender and color has darkened and is spotty brown, 15 to 20 minutes, turning corn once halfway through cooking.

Move corn to hotter side of grill and cook, uncovered, turning occasionally, until spotty brown all over, 5 to 6 minutes.

Transfer corn to serving platter. Brush with remaining mayonnaise mixture. Sprinkle with cilantro, basil, or parsley, if desired. Serve.