Spicy Mexican Shrimp Pasta

Cut shrimp in half crosswise. In a large bowl, toss shrimp with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and baking soda. Refrigerate for 15 minutes or up to 1 hour.

Meanwhile, in a large skillet, add butter and reserved shrimp shells and heat over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until butter is melted and bubbling and shells are bright orange, 7 to 10 minutes. In a fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl, strain butter with shells. Discard shells and return shrimp-infused butter to skillet.

In a mortar and pestle, smash serranos and garlic into a rough paste; alternatively, finely mince by hand. Set aside.

In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook pasta, stirring frequently for first 30 seconds to prevent sticking, until pasta is just shy of al dente (about 2 minutes less than package directions). Drain pasta, reserving 2 cups cooking water.

Return skillet with butter to medium heat. Add shrimp and cook, stirring occasionally, until cooked through, about 2 minutes. Using tongs, transfer shrimp to a bowl or plate.

Reduce heat to medium-low and add crushed serranos and garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until mixture softens and is aromatic, 3 to 5 minutes.

Remove pan from heat. Stir in lime juice.

Add pasta and 1 1/2 cups reserved cooking water, set over high heat, and cook, stirring and tossing rapidly, until pasta is al dente and sauce is slightly thickened and noodles are glossy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add additional pasta water, a few tablespoons at a time, if needed, to evenly coat the pasta.

Add cooked shrimp, lime zest, and cilantro and toss to combine. Season with salt to taste. Serve immediately.