Spaghetti All'Assassina

In a 4-cup measuring cup, dilute tomato passata with water to total 2 1/2 cups. Season sauce lightly with salt.

In a 12-inch cast iron, carbon steel, or nonstick skillet (see headnote above to decide which you want to use), heat oil with garlic and chiles over medium-high heat until sizzling and garlic has turned light golden; remove garlic with a slotted spoon, if desired. Stir in tomato paste and cook for 30 seconds, then pour in enough diluted tomato sauce to just cover the bottom of skillet, increase heat to high, and bring to a boil.

Add spaghetti, spreading it out to cover skillet bottom, sprinkle lightly with salt, and cook until liquid is mostly absorbed. Add more tomato sauce to just cover spaghetti and continue to cook, using a thin metal spatula (unless using a nonstick pan, in which case use silicone) to occasionally rotate pasta top to bottom and while moving it around to prevent excessive adhering of strands. Continue to cook the spaghetti in this way, cooking sauce down between additions before adding the next, until pasta is al dente, about 10 minutes (cooking times are approximate and will depend on how much sauce is added in each increment and other factors); continue to stir, scrape, and toss spaghetti occasionally throughout this process while allowing sauce to reduce and pasta and sauce to brown lightly in spots.

Once pasta is al dente, allow sauce to reduce one final time, and continue to cook over high heat until browned an lightly charred; scrape and toss pasta and allow to brown and char again. Once pasta is nicely crisped and charred in several spots, toss one final time with a glug of fresh olive oil, and season with salt to taste if necessary.

Transfer to plates and serve, topping with stracciatella, if desired.