Esquites (Warm Mexican Corn Salad)

Prepare the corn - Position a shucked ear of corn upright in a large bowl. Use a sharp knife to shave the corn kernels from the cob, working down towards the bottom of the bowl. Remove the kernels like this for all the ears of the corn. Discard all but 2 cobs. You'll add it to the corn while it cooks.

Cook the corn - Heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the butter and let it melt. Add the corn, reserved cobs, garlic, bay leaf, and salt, and cook for 5 minutes, stirring continuously. Add 2 cups water and bring it up to a boil. Then, reduce the heat to low heat and cover your pot with a lid. Simmer the corn for about 25 minutes, until cooked through.

Season the esquites - Remove the saucepan from the heat. Scoop out and discard the garlic, bay leaf, and cobs. Stir in the mayo, 2 tablespoons ground ancho chili, the juice of 2 limes, half of the queso fresco, and the cilantro. Taste and add more salt, if necessary.

Serve the esquites - Scoop the corn, including the cooking liquid, into serving bowls. I set out the fixings (crema, ground chile, limes, queso fresco, and hot sauce) on the side so that everyone can add them to their liking. I top mine with a spoonful each of crema and queso fresco, a sprinkle of ground chile, a squeeze of fresh lime, and a few dashes of hot sauce.