Crème Anglaise

In a 2-quart saucier or saucepan, combine milk, vanilla bean and scraped seeds (or extract), orange zest (if using), and salt. Set over medium-low heat and cook, stirring frequently with a rubber spatula, until milk registers 190ºF (88ºC) on an instant-read thermometer, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat, cover, and set aside to steep for 30 minutes.

When the milk has steeped for 25 minutes, whisk together 1/4 cup sugar and egg yolks in a medium bowl until sugar is dissolved and mixture turns pale yellow, 2 to 3 minutes. Set a fine-mesh strainer over bowl with egg mixture, and slowly pour one-third of milk mixture into yolk mixture to temper, whisking constantly to prevent yolks from curdling. Add remaining milk mixture, whisking constantly until well-combined; set aside but don't clean strainer; wipe out saucepan.

Strain custard through fine-mesh strainer into now-empty saucier; you should have 2 cups of liquid. Return to stovetop; once again set aside but don't clean strainer, and wipe out bowl. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon to prevent egg yolks from curdling, until mixture registers 175ºF (79.5ºC) on an instant-read thermometer and thickens slightly so that it coats the back of a spoon, 3 to 5 minutes. Working quickly, remove from heat and pour crème anglaise through fine-mesh strainer back into now-empty bowl. Place piece of plastic wrap directly on surface of crème anglaise to prevent skin from forming, and refrigerate until ready to use.