Chicken and Broccoli Pasta

Prepare the broccoli - Cut the broccoli into small florets, peel the stems, and cut the stems crosswise into 1/2-inch thick slices; set aside.

Cut the chicken into strips - Cut the chicken thighs in half lengthwise, and then cut them crosswise into strips about 1/2 inch thick and 1 inch long; set aside.

Cook the broccoli and chicken - While the water is heating, cook the broccoli and chicken: Pour 1 tablespoon of the olive oil into a Dutch oven or other heavy-duty pot, and heat it on high. Add the broccoli, and season with 1/2 teaspoon of the salt. Add 1/4 cup of water, then cover the pot and let the broccoli steam in the liquid, stirring occasionally (then re-covering the pot) until thickest parts of the stems are just barely tender, about 4-8 minutes. Remove the lid, add 1 more tablespoon of olive oil and the chile flakes (if using), and cook the broccoli, stirring occasionally but letting it sit on the bottom and sides of the pot undisturbed for about 1 minute at a time, so that it browns nicely, until all of the pieces have browned a bit, another 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the broccoli from the pot, and set it aside in a large bowl, covered. Rinse the pot. Put the pot back on the stove over high heat. Add another 1 tablespoon of olive oil to the pan, and let it heat for 30 seconds, then add the chicken, spreading it out in an even layer; season it with 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Let the chicken brown in the pan, undisturbed, until it has a nice crisp brown color on the bottom, 4 to 6 minutes, depending on the heat of your pan (and how crowded it is). Stir the chicken, and let it continue to cook until it is cooked through, for another 2 to 4 minutes. Turn off the heat under the pan and remove the chicken to the bowl with the broccoli, but do not rinse the pan. (The browned bits will help flavor the sauce.)

Boil the pasta - When the water comes to a boil, add 1 tablespoon of salt, and then boil the pasta until it is just barely al dente (about 8 minutes, for penne).

Make the sauce - While the pasta is cooking, make the sauce: Add the butter to the pot with the chicken drippings and let it melt over medium heat. Add the garlic, and cook, stirring, until it no longer smells raw, about 1 minute. Add the wine and lemon juice to the pot, and bring it to a boil, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Turn the heat to high, and let the sauce boil for 1 minute, to reduce it slightly (and cook off the alcohol in the wine). Turn off the heat until the pasta is ready.

Assemble the pasta - When the pasta is done, scoop 1 cup of pasta water out of the pot and reserve. Drain the pasta, then add it to the pan along with 1/2 cup of the pasta water. Cook for 1 minute; the sauce should thicken slightly but there should still be plenty around the noodles. (Add a bit more of the pasta water if necessary). Add the broccoli and chicken to the pot, stir to coat them in the sauce, and cook until they're just warmed through, about 30 seconds. Taste and add more salt if necessary.

Serve - Divide the pasta into 4 bowls, and top each with 1 tablespoon of the grated parmesan. Refrigerate leftovers, tightly covered, for up to 4 days.